I signed up for February’s climbing competition. My second ever. First comp was in December and was a great way to get a feel for what to expect. I was pleasantly surprised by the supportive atmosphere and the feeling that I was just climbing a whole bunch of awesome new routes with other folks. This one will be at my home gym.
I’m signed up, I have the time off from work, and I will be there with a smile on. I may even buy a new tank for the occasion.
I ran into a bit of a hiccup deciding what division to sign up for. They are a bit different in this competition than the last, and I feel like I fall smack in between two of them.
- Intermediate: 5.8-5.9+
- Advanced: 5.10a-5.10d
Although 10c-10d is at the tippy-top of my range (many times out of my range), the intermediate category is on the light side. After brief consultation, it was decided that I’d sign up in the advanced category so that I would be challenged. Wow. Advanced. Me. I’m patting myself on the back right now and hoping that I’m up for it!
As far as training goes, I’ve upped my time at the gym the past few weeks. A bit late I fear, but I’m noticing some improvement.
Here’s my week:
- Day 1: Toprope (hard routes)
- Day 2: Boulder. Cardio (30 min.)
- Day 3: Rest day
- Day 4: Lead & toprope (hard routes). Kettlebells.
- Day 5: Toprope – light climbing (technique and endurance).
- Day 6: Rest day or Kettlebells
- Day 7: Rest day
It’s a busy schedule, but fun to be at the gym 4 days a week.
The other new component this time around is the introduction of kettlebells into my routine. I just started a month ago, so I have yet to see how it will affect my climbing. That will be a whole separate post, I’m sure. What I *have* noticed is just an increase in general body awareness. I’m suddenly noticing that I let my butt hang off the wall quite a bit instead of keeping my hips close. I don’t engage my core enough when I climb. I don’t use my legs nearly as much as I thought I did. Things like that. I’m excited to see if and how kettlebells will affect my climbing.
So, I’m at 2.5 weeks until the competition. I’ll train hard until the week of, take it easy, and see how I do.
I’m nervous!
I'm psyched for you. As I was reading I was hoping you'd signed up for the advanced category…and you did. Good for you.
Can't wait to hear more about the comp/training!
xoxo,
k
Aw, thanks Katie! I actually thought about you being bumped up a category in your last comp. You inspired me!
I'm with Katie, I was rooting for advanced!
Way to go for it! Also, your training schedule is quite impressive.
I've never entered or been to a climbing competition before, are all routes done on lead?
That was Katie Levy…I haven't competed since last spring.
And Eileen…I think every gym is different? I've been to one where you get extra points for leading, but I've been to many more where there wasn't any leading. A lot of bouldering usually…
-k
Katie – oops, mea culpa! Thanks for the support! I'm psyched to compete in the advanced category. It's making me want to work even harder.
Eileen – Thanks, too, for the cheering.
As Katie said, every gym is different. I believe that in this comp it's mostly toprope. There may be a few bouldering & lead routes thrown in. The finals are on lead and are in front of everyone, but I'm fairly positive I won't have to worry about that. *phew*! 
The last comp was just toprope except for the super-advanced routes, which I wasn't climbing anyway.
Exciting Liz! I think you have your weeks until the event wrong though, from my calculations it's only 1.5 weeks away, not 2.5, I assume you know that but wanted to make sure!
I should climb too, hmm.
Micah – I think I realized it at about the same time you posted this. I thought I had a whole week more than I do! Oops.
You will be great! Sounds like we'd be good climbing partners, 10 c/d is the top of my range too.
Remember to breathe and stay present!
That is good advice, Krysia! Can’t wait to test the good climbing partners theory.
Good for you! I have had a few moment considering this comp (sadly I will be in Mexico) I fall samck in the middle too. That was a bold decision, but it's only right! Go Liz!
Thanks, Lisa! I’m excited to see how it goes!